Walking about Ledbury you may notice plaques recording the location of former alleys, rows and yards. Some are easy to spot, others difficult. They were set up by the Ledbury & District Society Trust ( now the Ledbury Civic Society ) mainly in 1993 with a few later, notably Chapel Alley in 2006. They mark the location of historic features of old Ledbury at that time about which little is known today.
To find out what a plaque commemorates I have used Tilley's Almanack, the 1910 survey and census returns.
First published in 1897 Tilley's Almanack was produced annually by Luke Tilley and which, from 1904, listed all the streets of Ledbury with the names of the occupants of each premises. House numbers were added after 1908. Where there is a side alley, which continued using the main street house numbering, he records this fact but not the alley's details. Here is an example from the 1908 edition:
Homend No 83 Sandford C.
Homend No 85 Payne E.
Here is Common Garden.
Homend No 119 Fleetwood Mrs.
Homend No 121 Shinn T.
From this it is usually possible to work out how many cottages there were in the side alley (sixteen in this example - odd numbers only) but gives no idea of who was there.
The 1910 survey provided a unique snapshot of land and property at the time, assessing its worth, how it was used and by whom. It includes the names of the occupants and owners of every property. From this we can be sure of the number of cottages in any given area, who lived there and who owned it.
Finally The 1911 census gives some details of the age and occupation of the occupier, it also requires the number of rooms, including the kitchen, to be listed.
All the above sources enable a snapshot of the area in 1910/1911 to be made.
Noting when the Almanack stops referring to them gives us some idea of when the cottages were demolished.
For more on Luke Tilley click here and you can read the Almanacks here
Note for family historians: I am only recording the main householder, not the whole family. Most alleys are in the Homend, note the East side of the Homend is on the right going up from the Market House. Starting with:
Smoke Alley. 11 very small cottages were here. Difficult to imagine in the space today. Common Garden. 16 cottages. The area was also known as Covent Garden. Bill's Yard. Details of 2 cottages.
The Brickyard. 9 cottages some backing on to Homend Crescent. Dew's Yard. 6 cottages owned by Mrs Dew. Ward's Row. 4 or 5 cottages here. Nag's Head Yard. 4 cottages at right angles to the road.
Consisting of 11 humble tenements in a rural setting they may have been desirable at the time but were too small for today's needs.
Known as Smoke Alley by 1841 some were up for sale as part of a large auction of Homend properties in 1841.
From the Hereford Journal of April 7 1841:
Lot 6: Two COTTAGES, situate in an Alley called Smoke Alley, in the Homend street aforesaid, in the occupation of Sarah Webb and Hannah Sandy. Lot 7: Two COTTAGES, situate Smoke Alley aforesaid, in the occupation of Henry Walters and Thomas Treherne. Lot 8. Two COTTAGES, situate Smoke Alley aforesaid, the occupation of Christiana Floyd and John Webb.
11 households living in a very confined space inevitably leads to friction as this extract from the Hereford Times of January 17 1846 shows:
Smoke Alley. We beg to call the attention of Superintendent Shead to tbe shameful rows which, daily and nightly, are now taking place this beautiful locality. Rows shocking to be heard, with language the most filthy, disgusting, and dreadful description made use of, to the great annoyance of the respectable parties who have the misfortune to live within hearing of them. We are in the frequent habit of calling on a friend whose house, unfortunately, is too near this sink of vice, and the rows and dreadful language we have heard is beyond all description. In the locality alluded to there is a nest of partridge which much requires to lie undisturbed. Amid all the din of about a dozen men's and women's tongues going at the same time, the voices of the old cock and hen may be heard above all. We have heard that some of these parties are about apply to the magistrates for justice tho. others hope the magistrates will do them all justice, by binding them all over to keep the peace.
Hard to imagine a nest of partridges there today!
This map of 1894 shows the location in relation to the Horse Shoe Inn which, of course, exists today.
Tilley's Almanack for 1911 lists this section of the Homend thus:
35 Hill Charles H Abbey Cottage.
Ballard J E Abbey House.
Abbey House School Miss Ballard.
Horse Shoe Inn.
Here is Smoke Alley.
67 Jones Miss Shopkeeper.
69 Webb Mrs A
As it doesn't list every Homend House number this is not too helpful in determining how many cottages were in the Alley. Fortunately the 1910 survey and the 1911 census both show there were 11 cottages there.
Here are the results:
Occupier/age
Occupation
Owner
No. of rooms
William Holtham 67
Labourer
Misses Harrington
2
William Protheroe 57
Labourer
Misses Harrington
3
John Hale 77
Chimney Sweep
J E Ballard
3
Francis Davies 55
Labourer
J E Ballard
3
Thomas Mold 68
Labourer
J E Ballard
3
Mary Lancett 76
Pensioner
J E Ballard
2
Charles Treherne 59
Farm Labourer
J E Ballard
2
Charles Webley 30
Labourer
J E Ballard
2
E Cooper 49
Labourer
J E Ballard
3
James Morris 25
Labourer
Misses Harrington
2
John Webley 57
Labourer
Misses Harrington
2
The Misses Harrington were two unmarried sisters living in Bank Crescent, Sarah Jane, (1861-1921), and Catherine Martha, (1872-1931) daughters of Henry & Elizabeth. John Edy Ballard, (1842-1911) the son of Thomas and Ann was living in Abbey House, Homend.
The cottages must have been very small and would have had a shared toilet and water pump.
With one exception they were all demolished by 1965, the last cottage in 1969 leaving this scene today.
Smoke Alley today.
The steps on the right lead to No 39, which was never part of Smoke Alley. Access to this cottage, known as Horseshoe Cottage, used to be on the right hand side of the Horseshoe Inn hence the cottage's number 39.
In the 1911 census the Householder fills in the form including the address (usually saying Common Garden). The Enumerator adds his understanding of the address on another page and in every case with Common Garden he, the enumerator, uses the term Covent Garden. It is safe to say Common Garden and Covent Garden are one and the same.
William Crockett (1836-1912) was a Glover in New Street Ledbury in the mid C19. By 1911 he was landlord of the Garibaldi Inn Worcester.
John Haines (1856-1922) was a chimney sweep with a large family in 123 Homend.
This map from 1894 shows the location in relation to the old Methodist Chapel. The alley can be found next door to Isaac's shop in the Homend
They were all demolished by 1955.
Today some houses, known as Common Gardens, have been built near Homend Crescent. The lower part of the site is shown here.
Elizabeth Watts was the wife of William Watts, a Boot Maker, who was in No 135 Homend in 1909. He then moved to his native Devon
Bill's Yard is never mentioned in previous censuses so who was Bill?
Confusingly there are two candidates:
1   William Barnett who lived in No 133.
2   William Watts, whose wife owned No 135 and the extra cottage.
William Barnett (1858-1939) was Ledbury born and bred. He married Bertha Watkins in Ledbury in 1900 and they had 6 children the last in 1917 when he was a private in the Liverpool Labour Battalion during WW1. Always a labourer he is unlikely to have any claim to the title of Bill's Yard.
William Watts, b 1853, a bootmaker, was only here a few years from about 1904 until 1910 when he moved to Honiton, in fact he was never anywhere for long. Nevertheless he was (or his wife was) able to purchase the property. He was succeeded by Frederick Merritt as this advert from 1911 Tilley's shows. Perhaps as a 'Depot' a yard was needed.
The Martins, of banking fame (Martins Bank eventually merged with Barclays), lived in Upper Hall. The incumbent at this time was Waldyve Alexander Hamilton Martin.
In the 1910 survey only four are said to be in the Brickyard five are in 'Backway'.
The area is recorded in the 1851 census but not shown on the 1824 map shown above so the cottages were presumably built between those dates. All demolished about 1964.
This map of 1894 shows the location with respect to the Methodist chapel and could explain why some are considered to be in Backway as those on the right do face the road called Backway at that time. This was later known as Back Homend before becoming Homend Crescent.
Note. The James Barnett in Dew's Yard was Stephen Barnett's father ( see below ).
So who was the Dew giving his name to this Alley?
There is only one Dew - Thomas - living in Ledbury in the latter half of the C19. Here is a brief history of his life, confirming his association with the Alley.
Thomas Dew was born in Ledbury in 1832 and married Caroline Browning (b 1834) in Pauntley in 1855.
They had Walter in 1860, Henry in 1863, Frances in 1865, Eveline in 1870, William in 1872 and Arthur in 1877.
Living in Union Lane ( now Orchard Lane ) Thomas became a master Carpenter and joiner employing one man. He died in 1903, Caroline in 1916. Frances married Stephen Benjamin Barnett (b 1865 Ledbury) in Hereford in 1887.Starting married life in Ledbury they had Frances in 1888, Evelyn Vesta in 1890. Moving to Brecon they had five children.:
Gwenllian in 1893,
Ernest in 1896,
Archibald in 1900, during a spell in Coventry they had Alexandra in 1902.
When his father in law, Thomas Dew, died in 1903 the Barnett family must have moved back to Ledbury, Tilley's shows them in 201 Homend i.e. next to Dew's Yard, in 1904, where they had Dora in 1906 and Lilian in 1909.
Stephen died in WW1 on Oct 29th 1918 just a few weeks before the war ended. Frances moved to her mother's house in Union Lane.
In 1955 Tilley's refers to this yard as Gable Cottages Yard but in 1960 they are no longer listed.
This 1894 map shows the area in relation to the Baptist chapel.
Thomas Ward (1834-1916) was the son of Frances Ward, farmer, of Fair Tree Farm Ledbury. Thomas married Jessica Meek in 1864. Farming in Cradley, where they had a daughter Henrietta Alice in 1868 and a son Walter Thomas in 1871. Thomas retired by 1881 and is in Rose Cottage Donnington by 1911.
From Colwall Albert James Moss (1863-1918) married Mary Ann Barnes in 1891. After a short spell in Bradlow they settled in 217 the Homend where he is listed as a coal agent with 5 children in 1911. He died there in 1918, Mary Ann in 1935. Always listed as a Labourer he must have done well out of the coal business as he owns all the houses from No 207 to 221 in the Homend in 1910.
Ward's Row is last listed in Tilley's in 1965.
1894 map showing Ward's Row in relation to Union Lane (now Orchard Lane).
Usually in the 1911 census the occupants of side alleys do not state the Homend House Number. Fortunately here they do, including the fact that it is Nag's Head Yard.
The owner, E C Williams I can find nothing about.
The location of Nag's Head yard can be seen on this map of 1894. The cottages consisted of a row at right angles to the Homend
Tilley's stops listing the Yard in 1965 when the house seen today was built.
Some history: There is a mention of Nag's Head Cottages in Biddulph papers dated 1773
This picture of the end of No 235, formerly the Nag's Head, shows it is of "Cruck" construction. Cruck is the term applied to a pair of curving timber members that meet at their tops to produce a rough arch. A popular construction method in the C12, it continued to be used until the C18. This house, and its cottages, must have existed in splendid isolation in the C17/C18. If you look closely at the 1894 map above you will notice that Union Lane, now Orchard Lane, does not meet the Homend opposite Nag's Head as it does today. The original line of the lane can be seen on the ground as a side road to various properties just by the traffic lights in the Homend.
The family of Scattergoods William, b 1793, and his wife Mary, b 1803, moved to Ledbury from Worcester shortly before 1841 and settled in New Street, they had 8 children. Here we are following, William b 1825, the owner listed above, and Daniel, b 1837.
Daniel Scattergood married Sophia Brant in Kings Norton in 1861 and is in Church St in 1861 as a butcher. They had one son, Daniel Thomas. Sophia died in 1862 and Daniel remarried to Elizabeth Jeffs in 1871.
In 1871 Elizabeth is in the Homend at Scattergood's Yard, listed as Wife to Head of Household. (Daniel must be away on business). With her is her brother in law William described as an Ironmonger (out of business). He had been in New Street, see New Street South page.
In this 1871 census Scattergood's Yard is listed showing occupiers of the two cottages as John Griffiths 64 and Edward Farmer 22 both of Ledbury. There is no suggestion of these cottages in 1861 and as Daniel was in Church Street in 1861 it seems reasonable to assume the cottages were built between 1861 and 1871.
By 1881 Daniel, now a Horse and Cattle Dealer, is in Bridge Street and William is in the Homend property, listed as a Horse Dealer, with Mary Elizabeth his wife. She died in 1891, William in 1912.
The location in 1894.
These cottages are listed, the citation reads:
No 26.
(At rear of No 30) C18 brick. New tiled roof with gabled end and 2 large new gabled dormers. 1 storey and attic. 2 modern casements in segmental headed openings, segmental headed doorway with modern glazed door. Interior: said to contain C18 fireplace with moulded surround.
No 28
(At rear of No 30)Late C18 cottage. Red brick. Slate roof with coping to gable ends. 2 storeys. 2 windows. Segmental headed 3-light casements. Central panelled door with new plain hood.
As this extract from the 1881 census shows there must have been at least 8 cottages before that date as the enumerator lists '3 houses made into bakers warehouse'.
Note the John Hodges 48 at the bottom of the page and his son William 28 a baker.
As shown in the table above this yard is just a few doors from the Fox Inn and this extract from the 1871 census, again just a few doors from the Fox Inn, shows that the yard was called Gurney's Yard at that time.
So who were the Hodges?
John Hodges (1832-1908), a carpenter, and Martha Kent (1832-1900) lived an unconventional life. They are together in Bye Street in 1861 with a son William Kent b 1852 and a daughter Mary Jane Kent b 1857. The baptism's of both children state that they are children of a spinster!. For more on what happened to Mary Jane see Fox Lane below.
(Martha, b Deerhurst January 1832, is a dressmaker in Bye Street in 1851 as a visitor to a family called Stephens).
In 1871 William is apprenticed to John Powell, a Master Baker, in Widemouth St Hereford and by 1881 the family are established in Hodges Yard where William is shown as a baker. Remember this is the census where the enumerator says 3 cottages have been turned into a Baker's Warehouse. As William Kent Hodges, William married Caroline Allen in Ledbury in 1893 and they had a daughter Kathleen Anne in 1895. Sadly he died in 1900 as this report in the Hereford Times of May 19 1900 shows:
Death of MR. WILLIAM HODGES.
Mr. William Hodges, baker and confectioner, of Homend Street, passed away early on Monday morning. Deceased had been ailing for the past twelve months. and since October had been constantly attended by the doctor. Deceased, who made many friends by his kindly and amiable nature, leaves a widow and a little daughter aged five years to mourn his loss.
He was just 48.
Caroline carried on with the bakery business being described as a baker, confectioner shopkeeper in 1901. Kathleen married Roland Edward Osborne of Leigh on Sea in Ledbury in 1927, and Tilley's lists Caroline in No 50 until 1930 when R B Gabb takes over the business.
He was here until about 1950 when it became Merrits seed merchants followed by G E & B M Cole, greengrocers and then a chip shop in the late 1990s, now The Codfather Part 11.
The location in 1894.
The cottages remaining are listed, here is the citation:
Nos 52 to 58 (even). (Situated behind No 50).C17 timber framed with brick infilling. Tiled roof with gabled ends. 2 storeys and attic. West elevation casements outshut and passageway through, inside of passageway are doors to No 54 and 56 with moulded architraves with cornices, No 56 with fielded panel door, the end of the passage has elliptical wooden arch with keyblock and cornice. Wing on east is No 58, timber framed, ground floor faced in C19 brick.
There were two properties behind No 84, one used as warehouse by William Madders and one occupied by C Orpwood.
The 1911 census lists:
Occupier
Age
Occupation
No of Rooms
Address
William Robinson
32
Butcher
5
Homend
Mary Ann Baggott
64
None
6
Homend
William Williams
36
Bricklayer
3
Homend
Caroline Orpwood
73
None
3
Baggotts Yard
Henry Christopher
60
Railway Plate Layer
5
Homend
The two cottages were occupied at this time by William Williams and Caroline Orpwood
From the 1911 census:
NB This entry was probably not written by Caroline and was entered 'as heard'. She appears as Catherine Orpwood in the Homend in 1891 married to George and died as Catherine Orpwood in 1916 but it does show that 'Caroline' is in a 3 room cottage in 'Baggots Yard' and the next entry, with William Williams in occupation, shows another 3 room cottage exists; both after the Baggott residence, No 84.
The pattern is repeated in earlier censuses with the 1871 census being particularly interesting:
Occupier
Age
Occupation
Address
Joseph Cale
29
Butcher
Homend
William Smith
44
Postman
Homend
Robert Baggott
77
Glover
Homend
Charles Langford
57
Brewer
Homend Baggotts Yard
John Carter
30
Stable Man
Homend Baggotts Yard
Edwin Jones
53
Currier
Homend
Extract from the 1871 census showing the Baggotts Yard entry in the Homend.
From all the above it is certain that there were two cottages at the the back of what is now known as Thorne's Place and it was once known as Baggott's Yard.
The Baggots were living in No 84 from at least 1851. Robert Baggot, senior b. 1789, is here in the 1851 census as a Fell Monger ( a dealer in hides or skins, particularly sheepskins, who might also prepare skins for tanning), with his wife Eleanor and 7 children, Robert b 1820, Harriett b 1823, Olive b 1825, Edwin b 1827, Emma b 1828, Penelope b 1830 and Mary Anne b 1832. Robert senior died in 1872.
After he died his eldest son, also Robert, a cabinet maker, became head of household in later censuses living with his single sisters Penelope and Mary Anne, there are always two cottages listed next to them. Penelope died in 1904, Robert junior in 1906 leaving just Mary Anne who died in 1918, she is the Miss Baggott referred to in Tilley's Almanack. J Webb, hairdresser, is here from 1920 to 1947 when Thorne's Hairdressers is established by Emrys Thorne.
Living here from at least 1844 he (William) must have built 8 cottages in his back garden. These are referred to in his will dated 1846 when he leaves
'eight cottages with a garden and shed attached to each now in the respective occupation of Thomas Stephens, Charlotte Bailey, Ann Waite, Thomas Davis, John Meredith, William Colwell, Joseph Bowkett and Benjamin Jenkins with their appurtenances to the use and intent that my wife Ann Hatton' may benefit from the income. Most of the names mentioned in the will can be found on the 1851 census and are listed before No 15 when walking up from the High Street i.e. just prior to the White Hart.
This pattern is found in 1861 and 1871. In 1881 the cottages are shown as Bowler's Yard but in the 1910 survey, shown below, they are listed, historically correct, as Hatton Gardens.
Occupier
Owner
Description
Address
S H Bowler
S H Bowler
House & Premises
6 Back Lane
Mrs E A Gurney
Mrs Eliz. Gurney
House & Premises
Hatton Garden
Edward Smart
Miss S H Bowler
House & Premises
Hatton Garden
Miss Watts
Miss S H Bowler
House & Premises
Hatton Garden
M A Bosley
Miss S H Bowler
House & Premises
Hatton Garden
C Treherne
Miss S H Bowler
House & Premises
Hatton Garden
Chas Hill
Miss S H Bowler
House & Premises
Hatton Garden
A Taylor
Miss S H Bowler
House & Premises
Hatton Garden
Elizabeth Gurney
Mrs Eliz. Gurney
White Hart Inn & Premises
Back Lane
NB Back Lane was renamed Church Street at about this time.
And the 1911 census shows the no of rooms - they were small.
Occupier
Age
Occupation
No of Rooms
Listed Address
Sarah Hatton Bowler
71
Smock Weaver
6
6 Church Street
Charles Summers
32
GWR Platelayer
2
9 Church Street
Edward Smart
30
GWR Platelayer
2
Church Street
William John Smith
23
GWR Platelayer
2
Church Street
John Bosley
75
None
2
13 Church Street
Mary Ann Taylor
84
None
2
14 Church Street
Elizabet Ann Gurney
72
Beerhouse Keeper
10
White Hart Church Street
This shows just 5 houses between 6 Church Street and the White Hart (No 15) - unoccupied houses are not listed.
The last of Bowler's Yard cottages must have been pulled down by 1968 as Tilley's has the listing on the left for 1967 and on the right for 1968.
The tannery, (vehicular access from Church Lane then and now) was also owned by Benjamin Mutlow in 1839 (see Salter's Yard). I cannot find out anything more about the Tannery/Yard.
The letters P.H (Public House) on the map is now The Retreat with the alley alongside it leading to the yard.
This alley is the only one that actually leads somewhere. Go down there passing several old premises and the Tilley printing building, shown below, through a courtyard with beautifully restored cottages, and you will find yourself in Worcester Road.